AmigaInput & Calibrating Questions with Logitech F310

Decided to make a new thread as this one is about my lack of understanding or the quirkiness of having to "calibrate" a game controller, something I never had to do before.

The nice thing, I kinda have my F310 working with some games, not many but some, but it seems QUIRKY.

So I will blame my lack or knowledge of calibrating for now.

Please watch this video.

Am I calibrating right?

Things just don't line up in my head and with that 1941 Extreme game going nuts, and I think does the same thing on another of my games, I figured maybe I am not calibrating right.

Please offer any tips on what I may be doing right or wrong with mine.

Thanks

TJ

I don't think it has anything to do with calibration.

Even with the keyboard it doesn't behave very well, as can be seen especially in the high score entry view where you can move many steps left and right.

I was able to reach the Leviathan on a controller, an old F310 that seems to function the same but looks slightly different everywhere. So it is not completely unplayable.

edit: I noticed on OS4Depot there is a version a few months newer than what I have installed. 1.1.1 not 1.0. But the highscore functionality is broken in both of them.

While 1.0 joystick handling was bad, 1.1.1 at 640×480 resolution is too slow for my system, which is probably why the input lag is, uh, extreme.

@AmigaSociety

Is your executable file version 1.1.1 AOS4 Final, from December 2010? That's what is on OS4Depot.

As for AmigaInput, I would expect it to treat the two sticks the same and have two boxes, in addition to the hat switch graphic, in the calibration dialog. Instead it has that box and then separate axis for the right stick. So when calibrating the horizontal axis on the right, AmigaInput says "up/down" instead, from what I remember, having done this today.

But I think it's best to not start with the mode button. For instance, in the FPSE emulator (an AmigaInput plugin, to be clear) everything just works if the LED is not lit. A lot of software will not be like this, but will instead support only axes and buttons. Pressing the mode button makes the hat switch pretend to be two axes, but then you lose the fine control.

I think calibrating the unit works better when the LED is off, and doing with the LED on is just for observing.

@Thematic

I will have to look next time I boot my X5K.

Thanks for taking the time to watch my video and offer your advice.

Really appreciate it!

Guess I have it dialed in as close as I can get it for now.

TJ