Dave sucks

@BSziliQuote:

what

@levellord

Mostly yes, little bit of setup for first use, but it's real easy.
Most (all?) repeaters can be configured with a webbrowser by typing in the device's ip adress
which bring up an intranet page where you can connect it to your router's wi-fi network and configure how it should operate (wi-fi hotspot/external wireless card)

After that it works automatically when you power it on again, from my experience with my 300mbps Gembird repeater which was just as good as any internal card, fast and stable.


There's also Powerline adapters which carry the ethernet signal over your home's electrical wiring and requires no setup whatsoever,
they also tend to be sold in DIY stores right next to repeaters.
Connect one dongle to your router and the other to your machine and you're done, must be plugged into the outlet, some have a outlet passthrough for your powerstrip.
I experienced erractic performance in my home with bandwidth fluctuating between like 40 and 5 mpbs but my friend's place had a stable 70mbps so your mileage may vary.

If you're lucky and still have unused coaxial cables routed through your home then you can try Deca TV coax-ethernet adapters (No setup, 100mbps, 10$ ebay) to turn it into an ethernet network, which what I use nowadays.

Hope that helped

*edit*, just read that it's meant for boatfast, not your home.. did I just wrote all of that for nothing repeater should still work there I think, just ask for wi-fi password.

An alternative are Wi-Fi repeaters, which can be configured as an external wireless card that connects via the ethernet port.
They don't cost a slot, don't use a driver, can support WPA3 and tend to be sold at DIY stores.

@khayoz

I guess we're on the same page.
My point was that he should try to avoid self repair.

But if johnfante were to proceed with soldering it back with an iron I assume, wouldn't using two short leads be safer than directly soldering it back on the board? I've seen too many restoration videos where SMD pads gets ripped off by using an iron.

Using two leads with additional solder worked for me in the past and made it easier for me, I'm not sure how to do it safer without a reflow station.

@johnfante

Yikes

I'm pretty terrible at soldering in general and don't have the guts to solder SMD components directly on the board.

Personally I would add more solder to the pads and solder the cap to the pads with two wires, trying to only heat up the solder and not touch the pads.

Not saying that it's a good idea and you should probably find a place that does actual proper SMD repairs or contact aeon/amigakit

I really appreciate this as I have a passing interest in OS4 and only look up Amigans occasionally.

Enjoyable to read, wasn't aware of the A-EON and Acube activity lately.

@Gregor

If I recall correctly, the spacing between the cooler mounting holes on the X5000 is unique from AMD/Intel ones and thus is incompatible with every PC cooler on the market.

Marcus Computer (Marcus Bräuker) used to sell common PC heatsink coolers for the X5000 ages ago, I guess he made custom mounting kits to adapt them for the X5000.

Might be worth to track him and ask how he did it.

I imagine AM4 mounting brackets for the X5000 being really useful and straight forward to make with a 3D printer, maybe take this design and widen/slim it to mount on the X5000?

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2681174

Noctua fans are a good choice, silent and long lasting.

If airflow is a concern then you could use a 80mm to 60mm fan adapter, a funnel which allows you to mount a larger fan with lower RPM to the X5000's stock heatsink like a Gelid Silent 8.

Amiga On The Lake used to sell these with 80mm Noctua fans but it seems to be out of stock, there are still some on eBay.

Only Southern Island/GCN1 and Polaris cards are supported, so no HD 6000.

240/250/250E are GCN1 cards, they should work with va.library as far as I know.

If you're going to upgrade then you must choose a card with GDDR5 memory, DDR3 cards aren't supported.

ARGH! how could I forget about M.A.C.E?!!!

Here's a demo

Software rendered Quake!
and the OS4 version of Shogo MAD!

I would really like see the performance of the FPU "trampoline" code with a 3D game, should it be working/demonstrable.
but that is a bit tricky as most 3D games (such as the Shogo) use either classic Warp3D or MiniGL
which the Polaris cards don't support without Wazp3D, which I think isn't finished yet.

So the most appropriate 3D games to show off the FPU trampoline system would be Spencer and AmicraftNova, maybe some of Kas1e's games like Foobillard++.

FPU 3D games is of course if far from the ideal usecase of the A1222 but I'm just curious

A-EON did used to show SuperTuxKart as a example of a 3D game to run on A1222 in their press releases , though they're not available anymore.

Super curious as to how sysspeed would perform on it, but synthetic benchmarks aren't the most exciting to show at a event.

SMTube would be actually useful to demonstrate, wonder if it could be setup to use Emotion for hardware video decoding.

@Nuder_Try
I second that! but I think that Heretic 2 a WarpOS only game?
Which could still be demonstrated but needs to rely on some third party libs.
If WarpOS games are OK then I'll love to see Payback too!

I'm not too big on the replacement utilities from enhancer, such as xdock and multiviewer, but if I'm able to use the vanilla OS4 utilities then sure I'm game.

Don't knock it till you tried it () , it's not that OS4 is going anywhere soon.

Seems to be made by most of the OS4 guys anyway? If the stuff with Ben is sorted then maybe they'll christen it to OS4.2

@RinceWynd

http://www.amiga-look.org is a good place for OS4 skins, icons and backdrops


Found this OSX Aqua theme overthere
http://www.amiga-look.org/artwork/aqua-theme

@Raziel
Quote:
Man, just turning it on honestly scares me.

@RinceWynd

Did you install final edition update 1 & update 2 + update 2 quick fix from hyperion's site? Maybe that'll help

Amiupdate should work out of the box though, Hyperion claims that Final Edition doesn't work as an update and is intended for a fresh install. I installed it over my existing 4.1 drive and it seems to work fine for me.

@Raziel

Don't remove usb device whilst running..
Don't use DMA on the onboard IDE..
Make sure the battery has a charge..
If you have onboard audio then you should be grateful..
Don't feed it after midnight..
Don't look at it funny..

@RinceWynd

I suspect that it might be a busted ide cable.

Perhaps you could rip the iso on another PC, "burn" it to a USB drive and boot off that.

@RinceWynd

Quote:

I'm jealous

Does the harddrive have a higher boot priority in Partition Wizard?

Also don't miss Raziel's advice incase my post overshadows it..



Here's my VIA OS4.1 CD boot process and uboot environment for what it's worth

U-Boot 1.1.1 (Mar 3 2005 - 16:42:53), Build: 03/03/05

CPU: MPC7457 v1.1 @ 1066.666 MHz
Board: AmigaOne
DRAM:
Information for SIMM bank 0:
Number of banks: 2
Number of row addresses: 13
Number of coumns addresses: 11
SIMM is registered
Supported burst lenghts: 8 4 2 1
Supported CAS latencies: CAS 3 CAS 2
RAS to CAS latency: 3
Precharge latency: 3
SDRAM highest CAS latency: 750
SDRAM 2nd highest CAS latency: 1000
SDRAM data width: 4
Auto Refresh supported
Refresh time: 1042 clocks
Bank 0 size: 512 MB
Bank 1 size: 512 MB

Slot 1: vacant
DIMM0_B0_SCR0 = 0x00ff9f00
DIMM0_B1_SCR0 = 0x00ff9f00
DIMM0_B2_SCR0 = 0x007f9f00
DIMM0_B3_SCR0 = 0x007f9f00
Using CAS 3 (slow)
DRAM_GCR0 = 0x00550800
Refresh set to 2083 clocks, auto refresh on
DRAM_REFRESH0 = 0x00019823
Mode bank 0: 0x00008032
Mode bank 1: 0x00008032
1024 MB
FLASH: 0 kB
VGA: 0 ..
In: serial
Out: serial
Err: serial
SCSI: Error SCSI Controller (1000,000F) not found
Net: 3Com 3c920c#0
AT Keyboard initialized!
USB: scanning bus for devices... 1 USB Devices found
No Catweasel controller (0xe1594, 0x0001) attached
Bus 0: not available Bus 1: OK
Device 2: Vendor: HL-DT-S Prod.: DVDRAM GSA-4167 Rev: DL13
Type: Removable CD ROM
Capacity: 213.3 MB = 0.2 GB (109255 x 2048)
Device 3: not available
Bus 0: not available Bus 1: OK
Device 2: Model: TS32GPSD330 Firm: 20140121 Ser#: B796253830922C000016
Type: Hard Disk
Supports 48-bit addressing
Capacity: 30534.0 MB = 29.8 GB (62533632 x 512)
Device 3: Model: ST380021A Firm: 3.19 Ser#: 3HV28952
Type: Hard Disk
Capacity: 76319.0 MB = 74.5 GB (156301488 x 512)
Press any key to interrupt autoboot: 0
Bus 0: not available Bus 1: OK
Device 2: Vendor: HL-DT-S Prod.: DVDRAM GSA-4167 Rev: DL13
Type: Removable CD ROM
Capacity: 213.3 MB = 0.2 GB (109255 x 2048)
Device 3: not available
First-level bootloader: entered main
First-level bootloader: got 1 valid boot sources
AmigaOS4 first-level bootloader.
Scanning CD/DVD HL-DT-S DVDRAM GSA-4167 DL13...Found a CD
AOS CD boot partition on disk is 14 sectors long.
CD boot image (el Torino) loaded.found AmigaOS4 second level bootloader.
FLB: SLB loaded; now launching it
Loading .text @ 0x014000a0 (22464 bytes)
Loading .rodata @ 0x01405860 (2488 bytes)
Loading .eh_frame @ 0x01406218 (52 bytes)
Loading .got2 @ 0x0141624c (724 bytes)
Loading .data @ 0x01416520 (208 bytes)
Loading .sdata @ 0x014165f0 (16 bytes)
Clearing .sbss @ 0x01416600 (168 bytes)
Clearing .bss @ 0x014166a8 (3928 bytes)
A1 Second-level booter V2.
Idea, design and main code: Andrea Vallinotto.
Testing and fixes: Stefan Burstroem
SFS and ISO9660 reading routines: Joerg Strohmayer.
Linux booting extensions: Andrea and the GRUB team.
Possible selections:
1 -> AmigaOS 4.x: CDROM AmigaOS4.1
Choice ? 1
Booting configuration AmigaOS4.1

_____________________________________________

Uboot environment

] printenv
bootcmd=menu; run menuboot_cmd
bootdelay=0
baudrate=115200
preboot=
ide_doreset=on
ide_cd_timeout=30
menucmd=menu
bootmethod=boota
ethact=3Com 3c920c#0
a1ide_xfer=0000
ethaddr=00:09:D2:11:00:9E
ipaddr=<unset>
serverip=<unset>
stdin=ps2kbd
a1ide_maxbus=0
boota_no_video_menu=off
sii3114ide_xfer=0000
sii0680ide_xfer=FFF0
vga_fg_color=7
vga_bg_color=0
bootdevice=0:1
boot_command=diskboot
boota_timeout=1
sii3112ide_xfer=AA
sii3512ide_xfer=AA
boot1=psii
boot_config=Default
boot_method=boota
menuboot_delay=3
os4_commandline=serial debuglevel=12
bootargs=root=/dev/ram rw ramdisk=4096
pci_irqa=9
pci_irqa_select=level
pci_irqb=11
pci_irqb_select=level
pci_irqc=10
pci_irqc_select=level
pci_irqd=7
pci_irqd_select=edge
agp_enable=on
agp_sideband=on
agp_speed=2x
limit_memory=2048
use_memory_limit=no
boot2=
boot3=
video_activate=pci
serial1_address=3f8
serial2_address=2f8
parallel_mode=0
parallel_address=378
usb0_enable=on
usb1_enable=off
usb_use_header=0
ide_maxbus=2
ide_swap=1
video_num=1
menuboot_cmd=
stdout=serial

Environment size: 1019/4092 bytes



The garbled hashtag output with your printenv end is very strange, do you use these serial settings?
https://wiki.amigaos.net/wiki/File:09-putty_serial.png

Unrelated, you have AGP sideband disabled? turn it on that's free performance

Though it seems that none of the outlets have it in stock?

@RinceWynd

How odd, might move my PC to my A1 and capture my environment

Maybe it times out too soon on the VIA controller, your a1ide_timeout is set to 5 seconds, the AmigaOS wiki recommends 30 seconds as that is the ATAPI spec

Oh and uhm, you do have the master/slave jumpers set correctly, right?

@RinceWynd

Graag gedaan schatje

I assume you're booting off an IDE drive seeing boot1=psiicdrom before ssiicdrom, which case you could unplug the cable from your 0680 card and plug it in the via controller this one time for the update.

Don't think having the harddrive on the same cable would be an issue as long PIO is being used instead of UDMA for the harddrive,
which in Uboot would be the command: setenv "a1ide_xfer 0,0,0,0". which would set best pio for all devices I believe?

(or in AmigaOS: 4.1FE install disc\prefs\uboot)

If you are trying to use a SATA drive then, uhm.. my bad :/